A full service locksmith shop will utilize a broad menu of techniques and tools to meet the customer’s needs.  Outlined below is a brief description of a few aspects of locksmithing, along with some tips on lock installation for do-it-yourselfers.  Please browse through them and let us know if you have any questions.

Key Duplication Techniques

The most common technique for making a key is duplication using a machine that copies the cuts from one key to an uncut key blank. Sometimes key duplication may not be possible because the original key is too worn, broken or lost. In these cases, a locksmith can make a key by code or impression a key.
A key by code is a key that is produced without duplicating from an existing key, using special key cutting machines that cut a key blank to specified depths and spacing.  A key by code can be produced for a wide variety of door, cabinet and automotive locks.

A potential pitfall of a key by code is that the specific cut depths of the lock must be known in order to produce it.

Key impressioning: Without knowing the cut depths and without a key to copy from, the locksmith may have to impression a key.
The art of key impressioning requires a keen eye and plenty of experience. A key is impressioned by gently moving the uncut key blank back and forth to produce small marks on the blank. The marks are filed, the key inserted, and an attempt to open the lock is made.  If the lock does not open, the steps are repeated until the key works the lock.  Not all locks can successfully have keys impressioned.

One of the machines in our store.
(Click the picture to read about the machine)

Instead of writing our own lock history, we list a few links to sites with interesting histories of modern locks. The Yale Lock website has some nice pictures and detail, and for an explanation of the pin tumbler lock. Schlage also has a detailed section on lock history.

For a detailed look inside a locker-style combination padlock, look here.  Safes work in a similar way.  This site has information about how safes work, along with a few other interesting links about the trade.

Click here to see an old storefront sign from the 1960s.  Light bulbs inside the case illuminate the glass front with the old-style adhesive letters.

When we speak with a customer, we sometimes need specific information about the locks to help resolve problems.  Sometimes a trip to the home or business is not necessary if we can explain the solution over the phone.

Latch:  The part of the lock that springs into the doorjamb and holds the door closed  
Strike:  The piece that the latch fits into when the door is closed.

Latch with strike

Keyway:  The shape of the milling in the lock cylinder.  This shape permits or prevents a key from entering the lock.  Common keyways are Schlage C and Kwikset.  These common keyways are used across lock manufacturers.  For example, a Kwikset key fits into a Defiant lock.

Tips for Lock Installation and Terminology

The below diagram shows the door preparation necessary for the installation of a tubular lock, the type typically found on residential doors. When installing a lock, it is important to check the backset of the 2 1/8 inch hole.  The latch must have the same backset as the 2 1/8 inch hole in order for the lock to work properly. The backset is measured from the edge of the door to the center of the 2 1/8 inch hole.  Check the latch, as many newer locksets have adjustable latches that accommodate both backset lengths.

Many doors come prepped for lock installation.  Most residential quality locks can be installed with just a Phillips screw driver. When the locks are changed, the most difficult part of the installation may be aligning the latch with the strike.  The latch should align with the strike and click into place when the door is closed.  If this does not happen, the strike can be moved by chiseling out some wood if necessary or a rotary file (or carbide burr) can be used to file out a portion of the strike.

Please let us know if you have any questions regarding your lock installation or stop by our store for advice.

 

Keyblank:  An uncut key.  In order to copy a key, a locksmith must have an uncut key with the same grooves or milling as the key to be copied.  If a key is copied onto the incorrect keyblank, even though the cuts are correct it will not slide into the lock.  Common keys are the Schlage C and Kwikset.

Schlage C keyblank

Kwikset keyblank

Do Not Duplicate:  In cases when key distribution is intended to be limited, copies of keys can be made with the “Do Not Duplicate” stamp.  This stamp tells locksmiths not to make copies of keys unless the key holder has permission to copy the key.

Key by Code:  A key by code is key cut without a key to copy from.  Using a specific type of key cutting machine and knowing the cut depths, it is possible to produce a new key with the same cuts as a lost or worn key.  This new key is exactly like a factory original because the cuts are generated using factory specified depths instead of reading the cuts from the old key, as is the case with common key duplication.

Cylinder:  The part of the lock that receives the key.  When the correct key is inserted into the cylinder, it spins and actuates the internal mechanism that locks or unlocks the lock. 

Interchangeable Core:  A type of lock cylinder that is removed from a lock or lock body without the need to dismantle the lock.  Through the use of a special control key, the cylinder slides out (forward) for rekeying or exchange.  Unlike traditional cylinders that require the removal of a lever, knob or set screw to come apart for rekeying, the interchangeable core enables quick and easy removal with a control key.  Interchangeable core cylinders are offered for many types of keys and many applications like padlocks, keyed knobs and keyed levers.

Cylinder Interchangeable Core

In the Schlage interchangeable core cylinder pictured above, the “core” slides out the front of the mortise using a control key.  This allows the lock to be rekeyed without removing the lock housing from the lock.

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